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Along the Historic Moravian Culinary Trail
Winston-Salem’s culinary history is so rich, we’re serving it up one trail at a time…
Winston-Salem is rolling out a culinary trail series that celebrates our deep Moravian food roots. The culinary series is a trio of virtual trails (which means you can start, stay or stop wherever you please!) with each serving up a healthy portion of our history, delectable, tried-and-true recipes and our favorite places to stop, sample, and savor these distinct (and delicious) Moravian dishes and delights. We are kicking-off our series with the whisper-thin Moravian cookies, continuing with a savory stroll about all-things Moravian Chicken Pie (no, not "pot pie!") culminating with a salute to the yeasty, slightly sweet and definitely buttery Moravian sugar cake. So whether you opt to travel the sweet, savory or sample a bit from each of the three paths, we hope you find our culinary trail the perfect way to explore our rich history and wake-up your taste buds in Winston-Salem!
Pick a stop on the Historic Moravian Culinary Trail
With more than a million pounds baked here each year, Winston-Salem has been heralded as the epicenter of the Moravian Cookie production. This simple, but ever so sophisticated cookie, is a worldwide wonder for its incredibly rich (some may even say intense) flavors and incredibly thin form. Some bakers have even called it the "world's thinnest cookie." In an honorary nod to the thousands of batches of cookies consumed each year...we are kicking-off Winston-Salem's Culinary trail on a sweet note of all-things Moravian Cookies. Because the trail is an evolving path, we are constantly sprinkling it with new ideas, eateries and updates that serve up these historic sweet crisps in unexpected and modern ways.
Where to find Moravian Cookies in Winston-Salem:
Winkler Bakery in Old Salem
521 S Main St, Winston-Salem, NC 27101
More than 200 years old, Winkler Bakery features the original wood-fired dome oven that has baked breads, cakes and confections since it was built in 1800.
Bakers in period costumes welcome visitors, offer samples, and make Moravian Sugar Cake and rosemary bread, too. (Because of the volume, today’s cookies are made in a larger bakery, offsite, but all of their wares are for sell here.) The Winkler cookie recipe is adapted and updated from historic versions originally baked in the wood-fired oven. Visitors can talk to real bakers working in the space and firing up the ovens with the same passion and energy shared by bakers hundreds of years ago. They offer samples, too!
Just down and across the street from Winkler Bakery, take a shopping excursion at T. Bagge Merchant. Originally built in 1775, this quaint shop is your headquarters for authentic Moravian crafts and gifts. While you’re there, imagine the scene when this historic location was the primary "grocery" and supplier of the ingredients and exotic spices this community used to bake their Moravian cookies. You can spend an entire day (and more) in Old Salem. The Winkler Bakery and T. Bagge Merchants are not ticketed stops—so they are free and open to the public during regular operating hours.
A Winston-Salem original since 1930, Dewey's Bakery is a household name, especially during the Easter, wedding and holiday seasons. Visit their bakeries at Thruway Shopping Center at 262 S Stratford Rd and at Reynolda Manor at 2820 Reynolda Road.
Throughout the year, Dewey’s bakery locations in Winston-Salem are filled with a bevy of confections and cookies. Then in November and December, like elves, multiple additional Dewey's locations open across North Carolina, offering an array of Moravian cookies, sugar cakes and oh yes, cheese straws.
Mrs. Hanes' Moravian Cookies (Tours available)
4643 Friedberg Church Rd, Clemmons, NC 27012
Mrs. Hanes' Moravian Cookies is nestled in the rolling hills of Clemmons, a suburb of our city. The public tours of this family-owned business provide visitors an inside peek of the cookie company in action. Here, “Artists in Aprons” hand roll, hand cut and hand package more than 110,000 pounds of dough each year. They bake six flavors: sugar, lemon (Mr. Hanes’ favorite), black walnut, chocolate, butterscotch and traditional Moravian ginger. Oprah Winfrey named this delicacy one of her “favorites” in 2010.
On a tour, you’re likely to meet Mrs. Evva Hanes, a seventh generation Moravian cookie maker and her husband Travis who started the company together. Today, their daughter Mona and son Mike work alongside them. Make reservations for tours here. (Note: Tours are not available during the busy holiday season, but you can still buy cookies at the bakery during the holidays.)
50 Miller Street, Winston-Salem, NC 27104
A gourmet gift shop, Salem Kitchen proudly carries Mrs. Hanes' Moravian Cookies only. It’s the perfect stop before packing a picnic and heading out to visit a winery or one of our parks.
Restaurants with cookie creations are on the trail, too! We’ll be updating this list frequently:
Milner’s American Southern
630 South Stratford Road, Winston-Salem, NC 27103
Milner's American Southern is a family owned and operated full-service restaurant with menus boasting a delicious variety of Southern American classics re-imagined using contemporary culinary techniques. Brother Chefs John and Buddy Milner work tirelessly to source the freshest local and regional ingredients to create inspiring dishes. Order their signature Moravian Cookie and Pecan-Crusted Salmon served with sweet potato flapjacks, sautéed spinach, fennel slaw and vanilla bean beurre blanc. It’s always on the menu.
The Tavern at Old Salem (Tip: It’s just a block from Winkler Bakery at Old Salem Museums & Gardens.)
736 South Main Street, Winston-Salem, NC 27101
The Tavern at Old Salem serves up fresh Moravian cuisine and often sources their produce from the surrounding heirloom gardens of Old Salem. Cross your fingers they are serving homemade ice cream made with spicy ginger crumbs as a special. Or, sink your teeth into Chef Jared’s specialty menu item, Moravian Cookie Crusted Frenched Lamb Rack.
The Historic First Batches Were Baked....
To better navigate the Moravian Cookie Trail, one must first talk about the historical migration of its first bakers…the Moravians. In 1753, the Moravians—
a devout, religious group originally from Eastern Europe—were attracted to the central portion of North Carolina by to its fertile soil, abundant water and temperate climate. They settled on more than 100,000 pristine acres in the heart of our current city and called their new home the Wachovia Tract. Bethabara and Bethania are the earliest Moravian settlements along this expansive tract but it was in 1766 that the Moravians ultimately established the thriving community of Salem.
Soon, the Moravians' handiwork established what would become another hallmark of our city that survives to this day—a reputation for arts, culture and innovation. Their pioneering work as fine craftsmen and artisans of pottery, tannery, iron works, cloth and furniture making established the city of Salem as a sought-after trade center. Some hardcore culinarians might say that making the Moravian cookie is one of Salem’s greatest accomplishments, garnering worldwide fame and affection. In their earliest cooking chronicles and true to German heritage, the Moravians referred to the cookies as “cakes,” traditionally baked as treats for family and friends during the Christmas holidays. Although there are slight variations of the historic recipes or “receipts,” each call for rich, dense and dark molasses, ginger and aromatic cloves—robust hallmarks of the crispy treats.
Why Were These Flavors Chosen?
This is a popular question culinary historians like to chew on as they look at the history of the Moravian Cookie. Practicality and pragmatism—also trademarks of the Moravian culture—point to the use of the then exotic spices and flavorings. Ginger, clove and molasses were both hearty and available (through the trading partners that came into the area) These ingredients still tasted good after a long journey—or being stored a long time. Because most traditional recipes made such large batches of dough, not all the cookies were baked at once. Storing the dough for days or weeks during the winter months was commonplace. Bakers knew that as the dough rested, the flavors intensified.
Why Are These Cookies So Thin?
The cookies distinctively thin texture evolved over years of baking for several practical reasons. Certainly the thinner the cookie, the more dough there was to produce more cookies. The thinner cookies would also bake quickly so that the families could get on about their other baking and daily chores. Because of the generous amount of molasses called for in most recipes, a thicker cookie produced a harder cookie...think hard, tooth-jarring biscotti.
Want to try your hand at baking?
North Carolina and Old Salem Cookery recipe for Moravian Christmas Cake (Cookies)
Original publishing, 1955
|3/4 cup butter and lard or shortening, mixed||4 tablespoons ground cinnamon|
|3/4 cup brown sugar||4 tablespoons ground ginger|
|1 pint black molasses||1 teaspoon salt|
|7 1/2 cups sifted flour||1 tablespoon soda|
|4 tablespoons ground cloves||1/4 cup boiling water|
To Make Cookies*:
Cream butter and lard with sugar. Add molasses. Sift flour with spices and salt. Add soda to boiling water. Add flour mixture and soda water to creamed mixture.
Work well with the hands -- call in the man of the house (surely this step is optional) and let him work the dough if your hands are weak. "That's what Grandma used to do."
Cover and store in a cold place overnight, preferably longer. Roll to infinite thinness on board.
Bake on greased cookie sheets in moderate oven, 375˚, for a very few minutes or just until they begin to brown.
*These recipes call for a hefty quantity of ingredients and produce batches and batches of cookies. If you're considering whipping up a batch yourself, we recommend that you consider reducing the recipes by half.
A City of Arts & Innovation, Winston-Salem Reinvents the Moravian Cookie in a Modern Way...
Now that you've learned the technique at Mrs. Hanes' Moravian Cookies and have the recipe to make your own at home, here's just one more tip for making this 18th century tradition all your own. Thanks to Salem Baking Co., the beloved Moravian cookie has found new life in the world of hors d’oeuvres -- the sweetness of the cookie combined with its crisp texture provide the perfect base for hors'doeurvres -- a position once designated for crackers. Combinations such as ginger and bleu cheese, and lemon and mascarpone present a delightful sweet and savory taste to any dinner party or gathering.
Enjoy this list (http://www.salembaking.com/recipes/) of delightful takes on the sweet and savory bites, or check out Salem Baking's video here for ideas on how to make your own creations at home.
Find Salem Baking's Moravian Cookies in displays in fine supermarkets and specialty stores across the United States. But you’ll ultimately find the largest collection of cookies and trendy flavors online at www.salembaking.com.
Salem Baking Company was founded in 1992 when Dewey’s Bakery couldn’t fulfill their rising demand. Today, the company bakes and distributes more than a million pounds of Moravian cookies nationwide annually. You’ll find a diverse, luscious flavor profile with this label—everything from chocolate-dipped and chocolate-enrobed Moravian Cookies to the traditional Ginger Spice selections to Meyer Lemon, Key Lime and more.
The Cookie that Keeps On Giving...More Moravian Cookie Inspirations
Moravian Ginger Cookie Candle
Made exclusively for local coffee shop, Twin City Hive, the Moravian Ginger Cookie candle omits an intoxicating
aroma that saturates a room long after it’s done burning. The North Carolina-made soy candle serves as a perfect
gift item when sharing your cookies just isn’t an option!
Where to Find it:
Twin City Hive Coffee Shop
301 Brookstown Avenue, Winston-Salem, NC 27101
Foothills Brewing’s People’s Moravian Porter
Using their popular People’s Porter craft brew as the base for this holiday spinoff, Foothills Brewing crafted the People’s Moravian Porter adding nutmeg, cinnamon sticks and fresh ginger in the same proportionate amounts used in traditional Moravian cookie recipes. For added Foothills personality, blood orange and mandarin orange essence were also added into the mix. The result is a dark, rich, robust porter with spices and citrus in the nose, and a full complement of cookie-ness in the taste. Available seasonally at Foothills Brewing & Pub in downtown Winston-Salem and the Foothills Tasting Room.
Find more information on this Foothills Brewing beer and Salem Baking cookie pairing here: https://blog.foothillsbrewing.com/2017/11/17/more-moravian/.
Where to Find it:
638 West Fourth St.
Winston-Salem, NC 27101
Moravian Cookies in the Media
WRAL - Local Gifts We Love: Moravian Cookies
Raleigh News & Observer - Moravian Cookies Grow Beyond Winston-Salem
CountryLiving.com, the online website of Country Living Magazine – 4 Easy Ways to Serve North Carolina-Made Moravian Cookies
Carolina Travel Planner – Nibble Your Way Through Winston-Salem
DeepSouth Magazine - Nibble Your Way Through Winston-Salem
Epicure & Culture - Sip & Snack: Exploring Moravian Cookie Culture & Local Wine Pairing In North Carolina
Food Republic - Don't Tell Me Moravian Cookies are Only for the Holiday Season
USAToday.com - America's Most Indulgent Food Trails
Skimbaco Lifestyle - Taste the Goodness of the Moravian Cookie Trail in Winston-Salem, N.C.
Skimbaco Lifestyle - North Carolina: Your Holiday Cookie Headquarters
Town Magazine - Smart Cookie: The Moravian Staple Remains a Holiday Favorite
Efficient and economical are hallmarks of Moravian lifestyle even right down to their cooking methods and recipes or “receipts.” And no better example of both being served up today is in the form of the Moravian Pie. For more than 250 years here in Winston-Salem – home to the second largest community of Moravians – many accomplished cooks have perfected this savory dish transforming leftover meats by filling flaky pie crusts and adding just the perfect amount of velvety, rich broth gravy.
The pie was basically the Moravian culinary equivalent to the today’s casserole.
Like the Moravians that first baked them, the pies themselves reflect the practical roots of the devout Christians who settled in this area of North Carolina in 1753. And the hallmark that sets the Moravian pie apart from today’s “pot pies” is the noticeable absence of vegetables -- served on the side, but not in the filling. But we bet that even the most skeptical of pot pie enthusiasts will quickly forget this omission as soon as they devour their first delicious slice.
Today it is the Moravian Chicken Pie (MCP) that has become the hands-down star in this savory pastry line-up and therefore our newest addition to Winston-Salem’s Historic Moravian Culinary Trail.
Wondering where to try authentic (and even some not so traditional) chicken pie while in Winston-Salem? It’s as easy as…well, (Moravian) pie.
Restaurants Dotting the Moravian Chicken Pie Trail:
- Hutch & Harris – even this modern-day, downtown eatery celebrates Winston-Salem’s history by daily dishing up their savory serving of Moravian Chicken Pie. While it’s our only Moravian Chicken Pie trail stop in the heart of downtown, the other notable difference that sets Hutch & Harris’s nod to MCP apart is the hint of sage they swirl in their piping hot gravy. It’s almost like Thanksgiving in a pie crust!
The Tavern in Old Salem - nestled in the heart of Old Salem, the Tavern’s cozy and historic setting is the perfect backdrop to enjoy a freshly baked pie. Each pie is made under the watchful eye of executive chef Jared Keiper and pastry chef (and Jared’s mom) Lori. This dedicated culinary duo discovered that a touch of cornmeal in the pie crust magically renders a slightly rustic but still ever so flaky crust and the perfect vessel to host piled-high, hand-picked chicken breast. Add a generous ladling of velvety chicken gravy and you’ll swear you’ve been transformed back to 1816 when the Tavern was built.
- Spring House Restaurant, Kitchen & Bar – Winston-Salem is filled with a wonderful array of unexpected adventures, so it’s only fitting that we include the Spring House Restaurant riff on the Moravian Chicken pie. Served as a special (so call ahead to request) Chef Tim Grandinetti’s has created the deconstructed chicken pie – a rich, savory sauce full of chicken ladled into a cradle of delicate puff pastry. But true to tradition, look for your veggies served on the side. While Spring House is one of Winston-Salem’s newest and most popular restaurants, it is housed in the last remaining grand home on what was Winston-Salem’s Millionaire’s Row, the historic neighborhood of R. J. and Katharine Reynolds and various members of the Hanes (hosiery/textile) family.
Shops and Eateries Where You Can Purchase Take & Bake Chicken Pies:
Cobblestone Farmers Market – talk about Moravian Pie served with vegetables on the side!
Old Salem District
Located on the corner of West and Salt Streets Open Saturdays through November 22 from 9 a.m. - 2 p.m.
3285 Robinhood Road
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
Hours: Open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Mrs. Pumpkin's Bakery
3645 - B Reynolda Road
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
Hours: Monday - Friday: 8 a.m. - 6 p.m.; Saturday 8 a..m - 2 p.m.
Olde World Meat Market
166 Millers Creek Drive Suite B
Winston-Salem, NC 27127
Hours: Monday - Wednesday 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.; Thursday - Friday 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.; Saturday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.
50 Miller Street
Winston-Salem, NC 27104
Hours: Monday - Friday: 8:30 a.m. - 7 p.m.; Saturday 8:30 a.m. - 5 p.m.
The Tavern in Old Salem
736 S Main Street
Winston-Salem, NC 27101
Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 11 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Winkler Bakery (In Old Salem Museums & Gardens)
521 S Main Street
Winston-Salem, NC 27101
Hours: Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Sunday 1 p.m. - 5 p.m.
Another unexpected Chicken Pie expert is Mrs. Hanes…known for her world-famous (and Oprah’s favorite) Moravian Cookies, Evva Hanes is a veteran Moravian Moravian Pie producer. She doesn’t sell them at the cookie factory, but does give several recipes in her cookbooks.
Mrs. Hanes' Moravian Chicken Pie Recipe:
Moravian Chicken Pie
Recipe makes four to five pies
Crust – use your favorite two-crust recipe
- Cook stewing hen in salted water with pepper and bay leaves until well done. (Reserve the broth)
- Remove hen from broth, debone and skin.
- Cut into small chunks mixing white and dark meat; and divide in bowls for each pie. (VWS note: approximately two cups of meat needed per pie).
- Line pie plate with bottom crust.
- Add two cups meat; add 1-1/2 cups broth, one tablespoon flour and a pinch of pepper
- (Lightly) moisten (with broth) edge of bottom crust then top with another crust, pressing edges together.
- Cut slits in top crust; then sprinkle generously with butter and flour that has been worked together into rivels.*
*To make rivels, mix with fingers, two tablespoons flour and one tablespoon butter. If you are freezing the pies, you can wait to put the rivels on until just before baking.
Can be frozen at this point. For frozen pies, bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Bake at 400˚ F until brown, reduce heat to 350˚ and continue until bubbly.
Source: Supper’s at Six…and We’re Not Waiting by Evva Foltz Hanes (page 190)
Chef Tim Grandinetti’s De-Constructed Moravian-inspired Chicken Pot Pie
1 whole Chicken, cut into pieces | 2 cups Flour, seasoned with salt & pepper | ¼ cup Vegetable Oil | 3 Tbsp. Butter | 2 each Onion, coarsely chopped | 5 cloves Garlic. Minced | 4 ribs Celery, coarsely chopped | 4 each Carrots, coarsely chopped | ½ cup Dry Vermouth | 3 cups Chicken Stock | 1 piece Laurel Leaf
Heat a brazier pan; add vegetable oil & butter. Coat chicken with flour – add to brazier pan & brown nicely! Remove chicken from brazier pan – reserve. Add onion, garlic, celery, & carrot to brazier pan – sweat/cook gently for 6-8 minutes. Add dry vermouth and release fond from bottom of brazier. Add chicken stock, thyme, & laurel leaf – bring to a simmer. Allow to simmer for 45-50 minutes. Remove chicken – reserve. Strain braising liquid/ – adjust seasonings & reserve.
3 each Carrots | 2 Tbsp. Butter | 3 tsp, Dill | Salt & Pepper
Cook carrots until tender – season with dill, salt & pepper. Puree. Reserve.
1 cup Peas | 2 Tbsp. Butter | 2 tsp. Mint | Salt & Pepper
Cook peas until tender – season with mint, salt & pepper. Puree. Reserve.
1 cup Baby Red Potatoes | 2 cups Chicken Stock | ¼ cup Scallions, finely chopped
Poach baby red potatoes in reserved braising liquid until tender – season salt & pepper. Scatter finely chopped scallions over potatoes. Reserve.
2/3 cup Cornmeal | 2/3 cup Flour | 2 tsp. Paprika | 1 tsp. Baking Powder | 2/3 cup Buttermilk | 3 each Eggs | 4 each Shallots, minced | ¼ cup Scallions, finely minced | 3 cups Corn | 4 Tbsp. Tarragon, minced | ¼ cup Vegetable Oil | 3 Tbsp. Butter
Combine cornmeal, flour, paprika & baking powder – reserve. Combine buttermilk & eggs – reserve. Add butter to saute pan; gently cook shallots, scallions, corn, & tarragon – 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat & allow to cool 15-20 minutes. Combine dry ingredients & wet ingredients to create a batter; fold in corn ragout. Shallow fry with vegetable oil & butter.
Puff Pastry | Salt & Pepper
Bake puff pastry & season. Assemble the dish. ENJOY!
Tips from the Chef: The Tavern's Chef Jared Keiper
When it comes to classis Moravian Chicken Pie, The Tavern Restaurant in Old Salem is the one stop you cannot miss. Chef Jared shares the top three tips to making the perfect Moravian Chicken Pie at home.
- Do not over work pie dough: an overworked pie dough will not be flaky.
- Pie dough recipes in North Carolina change seasonally due to humidity: more or less water will be required in order to make a crust that has a slightly sticky feel while still being able to be rolled.
- In order to avoid adding extra flour to your crust, roll the dough in between 2 sheets of plastic wrap: refrigerate after rolling and plastic wrap can easily be pulled away.
Good luck and happy eating!
Wrapping up the Moravian Culinary Trail is the beloved Moravian Sugar Cake. Whether enjoyed with breakfast during the Easter holiday or as a dessert in the Christmas holidays, one thing remains true about every Moravian Sugar Cake -- they're each baked with twice as much love as they are brown sugar, butter and cinnamon. The yeast cake, best served warm, is a favorite in most Winston-Salem households and a timeless classic amongst the Moravians who brought the recipe with them when they first arrived here in 1753. A distinct feature of the cake is its deeply pressed pockets to fit more of the butter and spices. It is said that Moravian men sought out their women partially based on the size of their thumbs. The bigger the thumb, the more gooey goodness to be crammed into every cranny of a freshly baked sugar cake.
Moravian Sugar Cake Recipe
From Dewey's Bakery in Winston-Salem, NC
(Makes four small sugar cakes, each about 4.5” x 6”)
1 medium potato
¼ cup shortening
½ teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons powdered milk
2 teaspoons mashed potatoes
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1½ cups bread flour
½ cup cake flour
1 oz. yeast (4 ¼-oz packages active dry yeast)
¾ cup water
1 stick unsalted butter
1½ cups brown sugar
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Peel potato, and boil until soft. Drain, mash, and reserve.
Combine egg, shortening, salt, milk, 2 tsp. mashed potato, and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer outfitted with a paddle. (If working with a hand mixer, use the whisk attachment.) Mix for 4 minutes. If you are using a stand mixer, switch to the dough hook and add bread flour and cake flour. If not, continue with your hand mixer. Combine yeast and water and stir it into the other ingredients. With a dough hook, continue mixing on medium speed for 7 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Otherwise, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until it is smooth and elastic.
Cover and let dough rise about 1½ hours, or until it has doubled in size.
Using shortening, grease a 12 x 18 sheet cake pan with 2-inch sides. Punch the dough down and roll it into a rectangle on a flat surface. Poke holes in it with a fork, and then fit it into the pan. It should touch the sides.
Let the dough rest in the pan and combine the butter, brown sugar and cinnamon in a pan on stovetop. Bring it to a boil, then remove it from the heat. Use your fingers to poke small indentations into the dough, making sure not to poke all the way through to the pan. Pour the warm topping over the cake, spreading gently with a small spatula to ensure an even distribution. Let the dough rise again until doubled in height, about half an hour.
Preheat the oven to 365 degrees, and bake the cake for 15-17 minutes, or until it is lightly browned. Check it for bubbles after about 10 minutes in the oven. If you see a bubble forming, burst it and continue baking. To serve, warm the cake and cut it into squares.
See the full Garden & Gun feature and recipe here: gardenandgun.com/article/moravian-sugar-cake-recipe.